This studio uses a different approach to cutting glass. I was previously taught what I now know is called the "English Method" which uses a Sharpie marker to trace the template pieces directly onto the glass. In this new method, we cut the template out of bristle board and then cut the glass using the bristle pieces as a guide. The theory is that this will result in a more accurate cut.
Pencil Cutter showing the cutting wheel. This scores the glass so it can be broken cleanly, |
Different types of glass cutters. They all have oil reservoirs to keep the wheel lubricated. |
Cutting out the template pieces is an extra step, and I can see how if one was doing a copper foil project it might result in more precise cuts, but with lead came I'm not so sure (the lead is more forgiving, since the channels can cover a small nick or chip on the edge of the glass). Anyway, that's they way they teach, and that's what I'll do.
My last project was composed entirely of straight lines, so this time I'm looking for curves. I've chosen 4 colours of glass (yellow and three shades of light purple) and also some clear textured pieces.
Our instructor is very specific about how each piece is cut (has to be perfect) and every single piece is ground (which was different again from how I first learned; namely to grind only the pieces that need it). Even with these stringent guidelines I end up having to recut two pieces (the half moon and the clear texture on the upper right) since they just don't fit correctly.
Curving the came is not too difficult, and things are going along quite well - until I reach the top of the "flower" and piece number 5 decides to give me a hard time. It takes some fancy grinding, but eventually we come to terms, and it and the came decide to work together!
pesky piece #5 |
After some reshaping, the lead and the pieces finally fit tightly together |
The pieces are held in place with horseshoe nails and it's very important to keep all the pieces pushed tightly together since the whole panel is sort of a spring-loaded "puzzle". If the nails don't stop the pieces from moving, it's possible for everything to slide out and that would mean starting over (which would be heartbreaking).
My soldering technique is nothing to write home about, but it'll do. Eventually the joints are all soldered (to the instructor's satisfaction), putty has been added to all the edges of the lead came, and the whole piece has been polished with "whiting" (powdered calcium carbonate; a safe inert fine white powder) to absorb the oil from the putty and to polish the lead and the glass.
finished piece |
soldered joints |
It will take a couple of weeks for the putty to totally harden, and at that point the panel can be lightly washed, and the edges cleaned up even more. But for now it's done, and I'm feeling confident that curves and I can work together.
Hopefully spring will arrive soon and the leaves outside the window will be green! |
Next project - a stained glass window for my bathroom (a project with an actual use).